Worthless Coins For Sale!!!

This $2,200 1925-s was hiding in a pile of junk coins, looking worthless as hell, until I spotted it — it’s brown and blends in with the junk perfectly well.

“On the street, Hale could feel really successful. The bitter wind slashed at him; he had only seventy-six cents in his pocket and no place to sleep. At last, he was getting somewhere!”

That’s a quote from my Dad Horace’s fantasy novel, “None But Lucifer”, and it’s relevant to the practice I intend to introduce, the practice of Coinology, which starts out by learning to actually SEE what you’re looking at, which is the very essence of the Waking State and is the gate to higher consciousness and essence love.

When you send for Gorby’s Penny Prospecting Kit #1 at only $49.95, you will receive nothing but the very worst, I promise!

I personally guarantee that every single coin you receive in your Gorby’s Wheaties Loot Bag will be worthless, or as near worthless as I can arrange.

I personally search and destroy all value coins out of the pack, to be sold for exorbitant amounts to passers-by.


Because you’re learning to see VALUE and GRADE, and it’s invisible against similar grade, so it needs a contrasting background, hence the bag of crap coins intended to throw you off and confuse things as completely as possible.


Good versus evil, red versus blue, warm versus cold. It’s contrast that helps you see a thing, like spotting a dark meteorite on a field of snow or desert sand. It’s easy to see against a starkly contrasting background, but imagine finding that same meteorite in a jungle or amongst similar-looking rocks.

You wouldn’t stand a chance.

So, I gotta give you something to SEE the high value high grade coins against, and that’d be junk coins, all no better than GOOD to VERY GOOD, and that’s what I’ve spent hours and hours doing — scouring out all the quality down to crap.

Want perfect coins? Want to hit the JACKPOT COIN of all time? Want to be the hero on your block with a self-found MS-66 RD 1909-s VDB ready for third-party grading?

Well, don’t give it another thought. That’s not going to happen, at least not by searching junk coins. The real money is in the junk. What is someone else’s throwaway is your treasure, if you know how to SEE.

So forget about hitting The Big One, and concentrate on transmission of the Teaching.

Okay, so you’re not going to hit the Big One, the 1909-s VDB or 1922 No D, so what IS going to happen???

What IS going to happen is that you are going to train yourself to properly, efficiently and effectively search 1909-1939 Wheaties for value above what you paid.

You’ll be paying exactly what I pay — anywhere from 5 cents a coin for the 1930s coins to a dime for the 1920s coins and 20 cents a pop for the 1930s coins, for the bag of 100% LIFETIME GUARANTEED bag of junk coins, all G-4-6, not a bit higher, and certainly no lower.

Now, hidden deeply within the bag of junk “BASE” coins will be several “TARGET” COINS which you’ll try to pick out from the bagful of crap coins, which will cost you an average of a dime per junk coin.

Here are the TARGET coins you’ll receive and pay for in addition to the bag of garbage:

  • 1 1909 LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT in G4 condition.
  • 1 1939 LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT in EF-AU condition.
  • 1 1929 LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT in VF-EF condition.
  • 1 1924 LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT in G-4 condition.
  • 1 1919-s LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT in G-4 condition.
  • 1 1910 LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT in G-4 condition.

All your TARGET coins will be charged at $15 to cover the cost of the coins and my time and expertise. All coins will be exactly as specified here.

What you’ll do for Penny Prospecting Practice Sessions is, you’ll remove your previous target coin and replace it with the coin you want to target, or you’ll put in the 1909 coin if it’s your first time.

I’ll explain the purpose of each of your target coins:

  • The 1909 is your first and easiest target coin to find amongst the pile of junk coins, all of which look similar. They were selected to look almost exactly alike. I hand-searched them to make absolutely certain there wasn’t an ounce of quality left in the collection, except for your TARGET coin. If you can find a 1909, you can find a 1909-s, and if you can find a 1909-s, you might someday hit a 1909-s VDB in EF condition, hidden in a pile of junk coins, all of which look exactly alike — brown and used up.
  • The 1939 EF-AU coin is intended to show you what decent grade actually looks and FEELS like. You really want this grade or better, and it’s possible to do as I did, which is to squeeze the value out of each and every coin that shows a little groove in the wheats, if you know what I mean. The other “GRADE” coin targets can be added one by one or all at once — those are the 1929 and 1919 coins. If you put all three of the “GRADE” coins in at once, you can determine the difference between grades more easily with some practice, all the way down to VG, which is just a shade above wretched G-4 “GOOD” coins, which aren’t so good, but sometimes that’s all you can get — in a few rare cases, it won’t matter what grade it is, but “rare” is the operant word here.
  • The 1924 coin is to train yourself to SEE the date. You’re after that date, as well as others, and actually seeing the “24” will help you to find those good dates and mint marks. Of course, the mint-mark is not there, but that’s another training issue in itself.
  • 1919-s — there it is, a mint-mark. You need to train yourself to really SEE them.
  • The 1910 is a handy device to train yourself to see the lower teen coin numbers.

You’ll note that I take extreme pains to make certain that the coins all match each other in look, feel and total lack of quality. If any coins are found to have value, simply return them and I’ll replace them with even shittier coins if I can find some.

Think about what’s happening here.

As you search your coins, you’ll be looking for quality and grade, where condition is everything.

A coin comes along, perfect date, great mint-mark, high-value coin, except — it’s a lousy G-4, which puts it at the bottom of the heap.

In the case of a high-value “semi-key” or “key” coin, such as the 1914-d, the 1910-s and the 1931-s, you’re looking at a genuine “jackpot” like a lottery or casino win. That’s just not going to happen. You’ll have to content yourself to squeezing value out of what look like junk coins, but aren’t.

Learning how to see value, spot grade and package it for market is an art and a skill, a trade and a profession.

You can play it any way you like, but the best way is to learn grading, and find some coins to wade through using these power coin-prospecting skills.

I’ll talk you through the stages of learning how to spot incredible value in a pile of junk.

  1. EXAMINE the package you received. There’s a bag of wheaties — meaning copper coins that were in circulation almost a century ago. All the coins in this bag should be 100% junk coins, graded G-4 or slightly above, no higher than G-6.
  2. ADD your chosen TARGET coin, which should be the 1909 penny, the first time out.
  3. Go through the coins and FIND the target coin.

That’s all there is to it. Do this a few times, then switch to a different target each time, and then when you’ve got that down, add all the coins and find them and sort them into little piles of “finish” coins.

Now it’s just a question of timing.

I use all my Magic in the Mirror hand-manipulations to spread the coins I’m searching and to flip them over to see front or back.

When I search, I first look for date and mint-mark, then re-examine my “chaff” for signs of grade or value, or interest.

It’s at this time that I check for DOUBLED-DIE errors and such, which I’ve tried to eliminate from the bag of garbage you receive.

We wouldn’t want you finding anything of actual value, even a long-shot like an error coin, so they just aren’t there, and I personally guarantee it. Simply return the offending prize coin and I’ll replace it with crap.

Just kidding. If one of the many error coins — especially DOUBLED DATES and RPMs — accidentally find their way into your BASE COINS, just keep it, I’ve got plenty more where they came from.

Now, if you’re ready to actually DO A SERIOUS SEARCH, send for a SERIOUS SEARCH BAG, and take your chances — it really is all about luck.

Remember what it’s like on the river, looking for gold nuggets. There’s Swede, casually strolling upstream, occasionally bending over and peering into the rushing water with a coffee can covered on the bottom end with a piece of Saran Wrap held on by a large rubber band, and he equally casually stoops further down, extending his hand which holds a cheap $2 tweezer, and he almost off-handedly picks up a nugget and drops it into his glass vial, which he’s cleverly uncapped with his thumb, holding the bottle carefully in the other hand.

Gold is where you find it.

A high-value coin can be found in BN condition among the coins in my SERIOUS SEARCH BAGS, but you’ll have to train yourself to actually see them hiding amongst the junk.

Most search bags will have been thoroughly plundered some 50 years ago, but once in a while you can find a coin that the plunderers overlooked or threw back as not worth their while, but at today’s prices and with today’s scarcities it’s’ definitely worth the effort, and there is a reward apart from the sheer fun of finding great coins among the trash!

It’s cash.

Some coins will inevitably be worth selling. Don’t neglect this part of the deal, because if you can unload the junk coins, the rest will take care of itself.

So what is the plan?

Send for the Penny Prospecting Kit #1 for only $49.95, and learn how to make your own kits and sell them and keep the profit! I can provide you with all the coins you need. Your average cost per coin can be as little as a nickel a coin for the junk coins if you only want 1930s as a BASE, for instance — not recommended, but possible.

So what’s the next move?

Use your kit to learn how to grade, then get hold of some collections somehow, maybe a friend inherited, or you might decide to buy a BIG $350 bag to try out your luck, skill and determination?

THE REALLY REAL SERIOUS SEARCH BAG is BIG and has a LOT of coins to search and wade through, and in this case, I cannot guarantee that I have pulled out all the quality coins. In fact, I admit that in when I send you one of these bags, I haven’t even inspected it or checked it or even looked at it.

I receive a SERIOUS SEARCH BAG, all I do is reship it to you. Don’t expect me to do the work for you, too.

If you don’t happen to score the BIG ONE your first, second or third try, don’t despair — better coin graders than you have given up long before you’re ready to call it quits.

That’s the real secret — not giving in to that desire to sink back into hopelessness and immobility.

Get in motion, find some value in those poor souls, or they’ll be doomed to go around again, hoping to arrive at your search pad in better shape.

Condition is everything.

Use these exercises to improve YOUR condition. Don’t show up at the JUDGEMENT TABLE as a lousy G-4 SOUL.

The object here is to raise your soul gradation to EF-40 or better by the end of your present lifetime. This can be done, but not by someone else.


You get a bagful of junk coins plus all the target coins listed above for only $350 — BUT WAIT!!! If you act now, I’ll send you ABSOLUTELY FREE a “TEENS” coin — from 1909 to 1919 are the “teen” pennies — and furthermore, I’ll be available at podcasts for questions about this from YOU.

I want to see you rolling in high-grade today! Here’s the best part. So you can turn others on to this practice, I’m making a limited number of kits available at wholesale, just $24.50 per bag, complete with TARGET COINS all for only $24.50, but you MUST ORDER TEN SETS at this price to make it worth my while to spend hours preparing these kits for you at what amounts to half my cost, but worth every penny if you get someone on board with this practice!!!

See You At the Top!!!