Let’s weigh in on the Trump situation, and then move on to more important matters. Firstly, Donald does not know, and never will know, that dominating is not winning. I’m not committed to getting that message across for two reasons — I don’t argue with the stupid, and frankly, I don’t care what the hell he does.
If you want to reach the same “Just Fuck Off” headspace I’ve reached about Trump, Trumpies and Trumpism, thanks to whom I can now freely use the word “fuck” on national television news at prime time, I recommend the “Official Mantra of the Hopeless”:
“As long as business is good, who cares what else happens?”
This worked well in Eastern Europe, until the extermination camps actually started to operate full-time, which they will soon do here in this time-frame, if I’m any judge, and I am.
Okay, that having been said, enough is enough, and I’ll waste no more time and effort on Little-Penis Donald J. Trump this day, as is.
Let go of all the Trump shit, all the shadow-show and hysterical need to hide his cheating ways, all his freakout about the Russia Probe and his precious money trip, let it all go, let it all go, let it all go.
Forget about Trump. Forget about Washington. Forget about injustice. Concentrate on the Primary Meditation in the Folded Lotus Selling Mode, thusly: Continue reading →
There are literally hundreds of errors in the Roosevelt Dimes that are still in circulation, and if you want to search earlier, you’ll find LOTS to develop.
What is “Development”?
Development is simply the process by which you bring a coin from “raw” state to “market” state, and can involve a number of intricate steps:
FIND THE COIN — Easier said than done, I’m afraid. Experience is the best teacher. Fool’s gold looks to the inexperienced prospector exactly like gold, but to the seasoned miner, it’s clearly not gold, doesn’t behave like gold, look or feel like gold, just plain isn’t gold.
HANDLE THE COIN — Once you have the coin in hand, it’s time to immediately protect it from further damage. Decide to protect it, and do so.
PREP THE FLIP — Take the protective cover off the inside of the flip and place it non-sticky side at the bottom, sticky side over.
BAG THE COIN — Carefully, handling it with dry fingers at the rim only, turn the coin face-down and place it into the flip.
CLOSE THE FLIP — It’s not enough to just lightly touch the flip to seal it. You should gently massage the flip closed until you know it’s sealed well. Take the extra second and you won’t regret it years from now, when you pull the coin out of a storage box.
IDENTIFY THE COIN — Immediately write out the flip inscriptions, completely, right now while you still remember what you saw in the raw coin, because the flip will hide some details, and memory fails after an unpredictable amount of time. This is where experience pays off bigtime, when you KNOW your market.
PRICE THE COIN — Price tag goes on right away with the current market value. If you don’t know the current market value, you’ll have to research it a bit online, perhaps on eBay, but also check with coin merchants and coin exchanges where coin collectors buy, sell and trade.
It’s about getting a clean box of coins without the crud, and you’ll find out all about it at the end of this little dissertation, but let’s let that happen as it will, and meantime dive into the meat-and-potatoes of Soul Search & Rescue through Coinology Searches.
It’s not enough to just find a great coin — you must learn now how to sell your treasures, and the best way to go about that is to create your very own unique personal Coin Kiosk.
You don’t need a store — you can get a space in our gallery, or perhaps you know a local merchant who will give you some space in their shop either for a single day or sometimes permanently, with your very own spot in the shop. This is called a “Trunk Show”, and you share the profits with the store owner — a fair split would be 50% of the selling price, but some merchants will give you a better percentage just to get your additional business through their front door.
In any business, wholesale, retail or service, the whole thing rests on NEW customers, not one-offs or random customers. You want and need repeat business, and that means happy customers.
The new business model, particularly in China, is to one-off everything and abandon ship, build a different factory, do something totally different each production cycle — that way, you’re never stuck with old inventory, but the downside is that you have to reinvent your factory every couple of months, and your salespeople never know what you’ll be exporting next. Continue reading →
Here are a bunch of personal notes expanded from a short stack of Post-It notes by my coin-searching pad. I hope you can use this information to gain a better understanding of the technique and liberating technology of Soul-Searching and Sweep-Searching under the 3 Aspects of Coinology which together form the triple-faced Goddess of Coinology, Solaria.
If, on the other hand, you have a favorite god-form, don’t hesitate to assume it for your searches. So, with a lot more further ado than you might like to see, here are the aforesaid previously mentioned “personal notes”, which are, as I’ve already indicated, expanded from much shorter notes written on sticky note paper and plastered by the side of my coin search table and adequate Soft-White lighting.
The biggest hurdle in coin-searching is knowing exactly what you’re looking for, and that really is hindered by studying photos. They simply don’t convey the “feel” of the coin, and once you’ve had an example of that particular error coin in your hand, you’ll not likely forget it, and you can and will SEE the error, thus giving yourself the confidence needed that you WILL RECOGNIZE that coin when it comes up in a search. No doubt about it. Continue reading →
I can show you how to create a “Coin Cash Cow” from pocket change, and I can do it in just 5 minutes a day in the privacy of your own home.
Coinology Searches are fun and productive and can yield a LOT of money while you’re doing good spiritual work at the same time. Let me tell you how to make TONS of money from coin searches: Continue reading →
You get the basic building blocks for a Lincoln Set, 1909-1929, which fits into the Littleton Green Folder.
When you’ve built the collection far enough, it will be transferred over to a Dansco album for resale, minus the key dates, but with all the semi-keys in place, but that’s not for now, not until you understand the medium AND the message.
So, here’s the rundown — prices are approximate and will vary SLIGHTLY, based on coin condition, but at this level, it hardly matters whether it’s a nickel or a dime more or less.
There’s a world of treasure, real treasure, the kind you can take to the bank, and yet, it’s as-if invisible to most people, who look right past the treasures of life, in a bleak vision of the present.
It’s not that hard to transform the vision from “bleak” to “clear”, but it takes a bit of bait and the dangling of a hook to catch the fish, as it were.
What’s needed is a goal, and a goal doesn’t come about without a payoff.
Simple — Money.
Of course, that’s only the apparent payoff. The real payoff is an immediate improvement in vision, clarity and presence-of-attention, which is the kind of powerful presence that can be invoked through the use of special attentions, such as the ones employed in a coin search. Continue reading →
Here’s a rundown of what specific actions I take with a new bag or box or roll of wheaties to be searched. It’s basic, and of course doesn’t contain “The Moves”, which are derived from Magic in the Mirror — MiM — in order to handle the coins efficiently and effectively. I’ll assume that the coins are already separated out into decades. If not, they’ll have to be separated out before beginning a search, because you can only compare coins with other coins of the same decade, when grading, or you’ll get entirely baffled by the sudden changes in quality, so the general rule is ALWAYS SEARCH BY DECADE.
So, you’ve got a bag of TEENS, TWENTIES, THIRTIES, FORTIES or FIFTIES coins. Let’s begin a search on them. Put the bag nearby on the floor or on a very strong table.
FIRST ACTION — Open the bag.
SECOND ACTION — Reach into the bag and scoop out a handful of coins.
THIRD ACTION — Place the handful of coins on your right on the velvet search pad.
FOURTH ACTION — Put on your Opti-Visors. I use #7, fairly strong ones, these days.
FIFTH ACTION — Arrange the pile of coins on your right into piles of about 10 coins each.
SIXTH ACTION — Take the first pile of ten coins and FAN or SPREAD them out in front of you where the light hits them perfectly, so you can see every detail.
SEVENTH ACTION — FLIP or TURN OVER the coins so they all face downward, wheats up.
EIGHTH ACTION — FLIP your Opti-Visor down so you can see the coin’s surface through them clearly and easily, and CHECK THE COINS for any sign of “quality”, meaning that there are some lines still in the wheat ears. You want to take out anything that isn’t TOTALLY FLAT — absolutely every sign of value or quality.
NINTH ACTION — Place any GRADABLE coin FACE DOWN, WHEATS UP, on the velvlet pad, to your LEFT, in a separate pile.
TENTH ACTION — FLIP the remaining coins in the spread FACE UP, to reveal the date and mint mark, if there is a mint-mark. Remember that coins produced at the Philadelphia Mint never carry a “p” mint mark, although in other denominations there are exceptions to this rule, notably the wartime nickel.
ELEVENTH ACTION — PLACE the coins in the correct piles, starting with the lowest date on the left. All mint-mark coins should be stacked FACE UP in the far center, slightly to the right, building stacks of about 15 coins.
TWELFTH ACTION — Scoop up the stacks of coins into tubes and label each tube as you fill and cap it.
Now all that remains is to store the tubes in boxes until they are needed. I’ll now do a step-by-step rundown on how to handle the coins from search to sale: Continue reading →
If you ask me, what’s my best grading skill-builder, I’d have no hesitation in saying that it’s my 1940-1958 “s” mint-mark pennies, that range all the way from G4 to AU-57 and sometimes MS-60 BN, which is common enough to make mention of it.
The BEST GRADING SKILL BUILDER comes in packs of 100 coins at $25 per package, just a hair below my actual cost of acquisition of those coins.
Sure, I lose in the short run, but I assure you that I DO make it up in volume, and it’s not about net profit, it’s all about cash-flow, as any accountant will tell you.
If you’re planning on using these coins to help others gain these skills, you don’t sort or pre-sort these coins, except to build your own skills — they should be poured out onto the table for the trainee just as they came to you in the plastic ziplock baggie. Continue reading →
“On the street, Hale could feel really successful. The bitter wind slashed at him; he had only seventy-six cents in his pocket and no place to sleep. At last, he was getting somewhere!”
That’s a quote from my Dad Horace’s fantasy novel, “None But Lucifer”, and it’s relevant to the practice I intend to introduce, the practice of Coinology, which starts out by learning to actually SEE what you’re looking at, which is the very essence of the Waking State and is the gate to higher consciousness and essence love.
When you send for Gorby’s Penny Prospecting Kit #1 at only $49.95, you will receive nothing but the very worst, I promise!
I personally guarantee that every single coin you receive in your Gorby’s Wheaties Loot Bag will be worthless, or as near worthless as I can arrange.
I personally search and destroy all value coins out of the pack, to be sold for exorbitant amounts to passers-by.
Because you’re learning to see VALUE and GRADE, and it’s invisible against similar grade, so it needs a contrasting background, hence the bag of crap coins intended to throw you off and confuse things as completely as possible.
Good versus evil, red versus blue, warm versus cold. It’s contrast that helps you see a thing, like spotting a dark meteorite on a field of snow or desert sand. It’s easy to see against a starkly contrasting background, but imagine finding that same meteorite in a jungle or amongst similar-looking rocks.
You wouldn’t stand a chance.
So, I gotta give you something to SEE the high value high grade coins against, and that’d be junk coins, all no better than GOOD to VERY GOOD, and that’s what I’ve spent hours and hours doing — scouring out all the quality down to crap.
Want perfect coins? Want to hit the JACKPOT COIN of all time? Want to be the hero on your block with a self-found MS-66 RD 1909-s VDB ready for third-party grading?
Well, don’t give it another thought. That’s not going to happen, at least not by searching junk coins. The real money is in the junk. What is someone else’s throwaway is your treasure, if you know how to SEE.
So forget about hitting The Big One, and concentrate on transmission of the Teaching.
Okay, so you’re not going to hit the Big One, the 1909-s VDB or 1922 No D, so what IS going to happen???
What IS going to happen is that you are going to train yourself to properly, efficiently and effectively search 1909-1939 Wheaties for value above what you paid.
You’ll be paying exactly what I pay — anywhere from 5 cents a coin for the 1930s coins to a dime for the 1920s coins and 20 cents a pop for the 1930s coins, for the bag of 100% LIFETIME GUARANTEED bag of junk coins, all G-4-6, not a bit higher, and certainly no lower.
Now, hidden deeply within the bag of junk “BASE” coins will be several “TARGET” COINS which you’ll try to pick out from the bagful of crap coins, which will cost you an average of a dime per junk coin. Continue reading →