You get the basic building blocks for a Lincoln Set, 1909-1929, which fits into the Littleton Green Folder.
When you’ve built the collection far enough, it will be transferred over to a Dansco album for resale, minus the key dates, but with all the semi-keys in place, but that’s not for now, not until you understand the medium AND the message.
So, here’s the rundown — prices are approximate and will vary SLIGHTLY, based on coin condition, but at this level, it hardly matters whether it’s a nickel or a dime more or less.
Okay, you have a bag of “wheaties”, which means a bag of Lincoln Wheat-Ear Back One Cent pieces from one of three U.S. mints — Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco.
Of the three, you could always count on the mint in San Francisco to develop lots of mint errors, notably involving the mint-mark.
In the Philadelphia coins, there are no mint-marks, but on the other hand, there are lots of opportunities to strike it rich with DDOs, which is to say, “Doubled-Die Obverse” errors, which means that the die got struck twice during the creation of the die from the HUB — it’s all very complicated, but you can find out about the process by reading the Mega Red coin book, which I think you’ll find surprisingly good reading, if you’re at all interested in the history of the coins and the mints that made them AND the horses they rode in on!
You’re dealing here with circulation coins, not special coins issued by the mint to make money for the politicians, such as the “proof sets” and “eagles” and special issue “collectible” gold coins, and other equally miserable excuses for collectibles.
If you mark something as “collectible” and everybody collects them and keeps them totally intact and pristine and mint-condition, guess what? They’re not collectible at all, because scarcity is a powerful driver in the collectibles market, and that’s just not there when everybody has one. Continue reading →
Okay, here’s my entry into the coinology marketing field:
GORBY’S PENNY PROSPECTOR
It’s a packet, pouch, box or clear bag with a bunch of ordinary wheaties pennies — a carefully calculated mix of teens, twenties and thirties Lincoln Wheat cents.
Please note that I have avoided the nicer-looking but generally worthless later Lincoln cents, the forties and fifties. You can buy them by the shovelful in mint condition for very little, so why muck about looking for and through them for the coins you really want?
My thought is that the price would be slightly different for a bag of 1910’s, 1920’s and 1930’s pennies, but like a crackerjack box, each bag is GUARANTEED to contain at least one, and sometimes two or three, PREMIUM COINS. Continue reading →
“On the street, Hale could feel really successful. The bitter wind slashed at him; he had only seventy-six cents in his pocket and no place to sleep. At last, he was getting somewhere!”
That’s a quote from my Dad Horace’s fantasy novel, “None But Lucifer”, and it’s relevant to the practice I intend to introduce, the practice of Coinology, which starts out by learning to actually SEE what you’re looking at, which is the very essence of the Waking State and is the gate to higher consciousness and essence love.
When you send for Gorby’s Penny Prospecting Kit #1 at only $49.95, you will receive nothing but the very worst, I promise!
I personally guarantee that every single coin you receive in your Gorby’s Wheaties Loot Bag will be worthless, or as near worthless as I can arrange.
I personally search and destroy all value coins out of the pack, to be sold for exorbitant amounts to passers-by.
Because you’re learning to see VALUE and GRADE, and it’s invisible against similar grade, so it needs a contrasting background, hence the bag of crap coins intended to throw you off and confuse things as completely as possible.
Good versus evil, red versus blue, warm versus cold. It’s contrast that helps you see a thing, like spotting a dark meteorite on a field of snow or desert sand. It’s easy to see against a starkly contrasting background, but imagine finding that same meteorite in a jungle or amongst similar-looking rocks.
You wouldn’t stand a chance.
So, I gotta give you something to SEE the high value high grade coins against, and that’d be junk coins, all no better than GOOD to VERY GOOD, and that’s what I’ve spent hours and hours doing — scouring out all the quality down to crap.
Want perfect coins? Want to hit the JACKPOT COIN of all time? Want to be the hero on your block with a self-found MS-66 RD 1909-s VDB ready for third-party grading?
Well, don’t give it another thought. That’s not going to happen, at least not by searching junk coins. The real money is in the junk. What is someone else’s throwaway is your treasure, if you know how to SEE.
So forget about hitting The Big One, and concentrate on transmission of the Teaching.
Okay, so you’re not going to hit the Big One, the 1909-s VDB or 1922 No D, so what IS going to happen???
What IS going to happen is that you are going to train yourself to properly, efficiently and effectively search 1909-1939 Wheaties for value above what you paid.
You’ll be paying exactly what I pay — anywhere from 5 cents a coin for the 1930s coins to a dime for the 1920s coins and 20 cents a pop for the 1930s coins, for the bag of 100% LIFETIME GUARANTEED bag of junk coins, all G-4-6, not a bit higher, and certainly no lower.
Now, hidden deeply within the bag of junk “BASE” coins will be several “TARGET” COINS which you’ll try to pick out from the bagful of crap coins, which will cost you an average of a dime per junk coin. Continue reading →
What is a “Gorby’s Penny-Picker Cash Cow”, and why would I want one?
Okay, fair question, and here’s the best answer I can give you at the moment — a Penny Picker Cash Cow is a fair booth. Of course, it can be applied anywhere, in a store, apartment or traveling bus.
First of all, don’t bother to register the concept — it’s not new, but it might be new to you, which is, technically, new.
So, of what precisely does a Penny Picker Cash Cow consist?
First of all, shouldn’t you be asking whether this Cash Cow is a Work Thing or a Business Thing?
Well, it’s both. You earn a livelihood from your Bodhisattva work, and it takes several very specific forms — obtaining coins, sorting coins, searching coins, grading coins, packaging coins, selling coins and teaching coin search to others.
When you send in your $450, I buy a bag of wheaties and search them to cherry-pick anything EF and above, and put those in a different container. The lesser quality coins are placed in your “Search Bag” or “Go Fish Bowl” in your fair booth or shop or waiting room. Continue reading →
Most silver half dollars run from about $35 for something decent all the way down to crap coins at $8 bucks apiece, if you don’t mind the fact that the coin is unrecognizable and basically worth the silver scrap price and not a lot more.
Even cheaper is the half dollar you get from your local grocer or bank clerk. You’ll need a half dollar in order to learn the very first trick a performing magician learns, which is called “The French Drop”.
The French Drop is the Very First Trick You’ll Ever Learn, if you learn from a pro, and learning The French Drop requires a specific and very serious and very official Initiation into the Order of Performing Magicians.
I’ll give specifics in a moment, but first, let’s examine the concept of coin magic itself:
One of the most natural and easiest tricks for which to find a prop is a coin trick. Almost everyone has a coin of some kind or another. The most common coin for the French Drop is the U.S. Half Dollar, but there are plenty of other coins and plenty of good reasons to use an unusual coin. Continue reading →
I like a Cloak that can accomplish all the magical operations you might want to engender, but it should also be striking enough, sufficiently eye-catching, to allow you to walk into the average museum’s gift shop and have the buyer ask, “Where did you get that dress?”
You can sell them wholesale, so that moment would be a good opportunity to speak right on up, with a phrase something like: “As it happens, I sell these, along with many other wearable art fashions and accessories, plus household objects of daily use — may I show you some samples?” at which point, you whip out your catalog, hitherto unobtrusively tucked under an armpit — but enough about me, let’s talk about you:
How does a Cloak work? I’ll try to explain, and I’ll keep it very simple. I make clothing, fashions of a different kind — they have “Attributes” and “Blessings” built into them, which gives the Level 1 Cloak a +3 To All Levels, which means it raises your Character’s Level from Level 1 up to Level 4, enabling you to act as if you actually were a Level 4. Continue reading →
Here is more of the exotica grouping, again all with only the single fabric design at this juncture. I’ll post examples of the various fabrics, such as silk, linen, cotton and more, that you can order as fabric, and cut it yourself if you wish!