Here’s a sneak peek at just one of the many hundreds of really cool and very richly rewarding coins that popped up in last night’s “Barf Bag” search — the coins were discards from other searches, deemed so miserable that they ended up in a bin and eventually in a bag, which I opened and am currently in the process of searching.
I’ve found a few 1924-d, some 1909 VDB and two 1909-s that have seen better days, but they’re readable enough to sell, although in this case, I’m not offering this grouping for sale — it’s intended as an example of what someone can accomplish in a single night, armed only with coin-knowledge and a taste for punishment.
Finding the goodies among the trash is sort of like dumpster-diving, and in a way, it bears some resemblance to it.
One thing that happens in a search like this, you never know what’s going to turn up.
It doesn’t matter whether the source of your search coins is a personal collection, institutional collection, just a bunch of coins that piled up in a jar somehow, or you bought them as a grouping of folders, or as a bag or box or rolls.
Before you start in on my coins, my grading and my retail prices, lemme just say this — nobody in my shop pays retail.
Fact is, I don’t really want to sell the coins that I’ve jammed just about everywhere in the shop, at least everywhere that I can reasonably hope to have some viewers and some degree of safety against boosting.
Those coins demonstrate something very, very clearly:
If you know your grading, you can make a fortune in coins.
That’s a fact, incontrovertible and demonstrable. You simply buy coins at a flat rate price, then find the goodies therein.
Of course, you’ll need a trustworthy and reliable source for your coins, and most of the suppliers are cheaters or worse — it’s literally a jungle out there.
The high-grade coins have been thoroughly searched for everything — that’s where the money is.
The medium-grade coins just don’t sell, period.
The low-grade coins are plentiful in certain dates, but other dates and mint-marks are very elusive all the way to downright unavailable, like the newly-discovered element “Unobtainium” that nobody can seem to get hold of — I only have the one sample, and that ate a hole through my desk yesterday afternoon, on its way to the center of the Earth.
I’m afraid to go anywhere near the hole. I’ve covered it up with a tiger trap, so the next person who steps on it will have quite an experience, I’d imagine.
You get the basic building blocks for a Lincoln Set, 1909-1929, which fits into the Littleton Green Folder.
When you’ve built the collection far enough, it will be transferred over to a Dansco album for resale, minus the key dates, but with all the semi-keys in place, but that’s not for now, not until you understand the medium AND the message.
So, here’s the rundown — prices are approximate and will vary SLIGHTLY, based on coin condition, but at this level, it hardly matters whether it’s a nickel or a dime more or less.
There’s a world of treasure, real treasure, the kind you can take to the bank, and yet, it’s as-if invisible to most people, who look right past the treasures of life, in a bleak vision of the present.
It’s not that hard to transform the vision from “bleak” to “clear”, but it takes a bit of bait and the dangling of a hook to catch the fish, as it were.
What’s needed is a goal, and a goal doesn’t come about without a payoff.
Simple — Money.
Of course, that’s only the apparent payoff. The real payoff is an immediate improvement in vision, clarity and presence-of-attention, which is the kind of powerful presence that can be invoked through the use of special attentions, such as the ones employed in a coin search. Continue reading →
Here’s a rundown of what specific actions I take with a new bag or box or roll of wheaties to be searched. It’s basic, and of course doesn’t contain “The Moves”, which are derived from Magic in the Mirror — MiM — in order to handle the coins efficiently and effectively. I’ll assume that the coins are already separated out into decades. If not, they’ll have to be separated out before beginning a search, because you can only compare coins with other coins of the same decade, when grading, or you’ll get entirely baffled by the sudden changes in quality, so the general rule is ALWAYS SEARCH BY DECADE.
So, you’ve got a bag of TEENS, TWENTIES, THIRTIES, FORTIES or FIFTIES coins. Let’s begin a search on them. Put the bag nearby on the floor or on a very strong table.
FIRST ACTION — Open the bag.
SECOND ACTION — Reach into the bag and scoop out a handful of coins.
THIRD ACTION — Place the handful of coins on your right on the velvet search pad.
FOURTH ACTION — Put on your Opti-Visors. I use #7, fairly strong ones, these days.
FIFTH ACTION — Arrange the pile of coins on your right into piles of about 10 coins each.
SIXTH ACTION — Take the first pile of ten coins and FAN or SPREAD them out in front of you where the light hits them perfectly, so you can see every detail.
SEVENTH ACTION — FLIP or TURN OVER the coins so they all face downward, wheats up.
EIGHTH ACTION — FLIP your Opti-Visor down so you can see the coin’s surface through them clearly and easily, and CHECK THE COINS for any sign of “quality”, meaning that there are some lines still in the wheat ears. You want to take out anything that isn’t TOTALLY FLAT — absolutely every sign of value or quality.
NINTH ACTION — Place any GRADABLE coin FACE DOWN, WHEATS UP, on the velvlet pad, to your LEFT, in a separate pile.
TENTH ACTION — FLIP the remaining coins in the spread FACE UP, to reveal the date and mint mark, if there is a mint-mark. Remember that coins produced at the Philadelphia Mint never carry a “p” mint mark, although in other denominations there are exceptions to this rule, notably the wartime nickel.
ELEVENTH ACTION — PLACE the coins in the correct piles, starting with the lowest date on the left. All mint-mark coins should be stacked FACE UP in the far center, slightly to the right, building stacks of about 15 coins.
TWELFTH ACTION — Scoop up the stacks of coins into tubes and label each tube as you fill and cap it.
Now all that remains is to store the tubes in boxes until they are needed. I’ll now do a step-by-step rundown on how to handle the coins from search to sale: Continue reading →
If you ask me, what’s my best grading skill-builder, I’d have no hesitation in saying that it’s my 1940-1958 “s” mint-mark pennies, that range all the way from G4 to AU-57 and sometimes MS-60 BN, which is common enough to make mention of it.
The BEST GRADING SKILL BUILDER comes in packs of 100 coins at $25 per package, just a hair below my actual cost of acquisition of those coins.
Sure, I lose in the short run, but I assure you that I DO make it up in volume, and it’s not about net profit, it’s all about cash-flow, as any accountant will tell you.
If you’re planning on using these coins to help others gain these skills, you don’t sort or pre-sort these coins, except to build your own skills — they should be poured out onto the table for the trainee just as they came to you in the plastic ziplock baggie. Continue reading →
“On the street, Hale could feel really successful. The bitter wind slashed at him; he had only seventy-six cents in his pocket and no place to sleep. At last, he was getting somewhere!”
That’s a quote from my Dad Horace’s fantasy novel, “None But Lucifer”, and it’s relevant to the practice I intend to introduce, the practice of Coinology, which starts out by learning to actually SEE what you’re looking at, which is the very essence of the Waking State and is the gate to higher consciousness and essence love.
When you send for Gorby’s Penny Prospecting Kit #1 at only $49.95, you will receive nothing but the very worst, I promise!
I personally guarantee that every single coin you receive in your Gorby’s Wheaties Loot Bag will be worthless, or as near worthless as I can arrange.
I personally search and destroy all value coins out of the pack, to be sold for exorbitant amounts to passers-by.
Because you’re learning to see VALUE and GRADE, and it’s invisible against similar grade, so it needs a contrasting background, hence the bag of crap coins intended to throw you off and confuse things as completely as possible.
Good versus evil, red versus blue, warm versus cold. It’s contrast that helps you see a thing, like spotting a dark meteorite on a field of snow or desert sand. It’s easy to see against a starkly contrasting background, but imagine finding that same meteorite in a jungle or amongst similar-looking rocks.
You wouldn’t stand a chance.
So, I gotta give you something to SEE the high value high grade coins against, and that’d be junk coins, all no better than GOOD to VERY GOOD, and that’s what I’ve spent hours and hours doing — scouring out all the quality down to crap.
Want perfect coins? Want to hit the JACKPOT COIN of all time? Want to be the hero on your block with a self-found MS-66 RD 1909-s VDB ready for third-party grading?
Well, don’t give it another thought. That’s not going to happen, at least not by searching junk coins. The real money is in the junk. What is someone else’s throwaway is your treasure, if you know how to SEE.
So forget about hitting The Big One, and concentrate on transmission of the Teaching.
Okay, so you’re not going to hit the Big One, the 1909-s VDB or 1922 No D, so what IS going to happen???
What IS going to happen is that you are going to train yourself to properly, efficiently and effectively search 1909-1939 Wheaties for value above what you paid.
You’ll be paying exactly what I pay — anywhere from 5 cents a coin for the 1930s coins to a dime for the 1920s coins and 20 cents a pop for the 1930s coins, for the bag of 100% LIFETIME GUARANTEED bag of junk coins, all G-4-6, not a bit higher, and certainly no lower.
Now, hidden deeply within the bag of junk “BASE” coins will be several “TARGET” COINS which you’ll try to pick out from the bagful of crap coins, which will cost you an average of a dime per junk coin. Continue reading →
What’s new??? Well, I’ve just spent the entire night making a BUNCH of SILVER WALKING LIBERTY HALF DOLLAR QUATRAIN MEDALLIONS, that’s what’s new today.
I’m ignoring the media circus in Washington for the moment, but I’ll be back with the latest flash in a minute or two — it’ll knock your socks off, if you’re a tenderfoot in the political/business arena.
I’ve written a few more FOLK PROTEST SONGS which are on Barbara’s desk for entry into my collection of Trump Roasts — get it? Rump Roast, Trump Roast? Haw, haw, haw, this guy’s a barrel of laughs.
Frankly, from my perspective, I’m indifferent to whether or not he sets off a nuclear conflagration. I get paid no matter what happens, and I collect my dollar bet once the whole planet blows up real good.
Not my problem, and certainly nobody else’s, either. We have other planets, we’ll get over it. The locals, however, tend to go down with the ship. Continue reading →
Coins like the ones you see in the photo above plus a few hundred more are waiting for you to need them, order them and use them in your Remote Readings.
SPANISH SHIPWRECK TREASURE COIN in Acrylic Capsule — $35
Not a reproduction, this shipwreck treasure is an original Spanish coin that was made anywhere from 1516 to 1808. These, along with the famous “Pieces of 8”, were used in Early Colonial America.
They are not “Colonials” in the sense of coins produced by either one of the colonies or by the Federal Mint, primarily because there was no Federal to order up a mint or currency of any kind, not until the Continental Congress voted to establish a U.S. Mint with the Coinage Act of 1792, the first year of issue of any actual U.S. currency.
In the meantime, until the establishment of the Continental Congress, people used paper money, which they distrusted largely, along with Spanish, Dutch, English, German and French coins.
When they didn’t have coins or cash available to them, people traded ‘Barter Money’ such as gold flake or nuggets, silver scrap, copper, salt grains, peppercorns, tea leaves, rare or large stones, bead “wampum” belts, alcohol, cigarettes, cocoa beans, cowrie shells, wheat, barley, and in many areas, bronze ring castings and arrowheads were used as money.
These rare Early Colonial Era Coins come in a beautiful acrylic capsule which can be carried in pocket or purse. This is a great Remote Viewing device for any scene of the period to obtain great Remote Readings either in Spain or Early Americana.
Many of these coins might be valuable numismatics. I have not searched them for this — my interest is solely in their Remote Viewing capacities. These are not intended for resale — they are spiritual tools to be used for your Past Life Remote Readings. Continue reading →
My style of embossing is free-hand and free-style. Unless illustrating by example some technique or interesting embossing tool, I use only one very basic tool — a very tiny ball-tipped embossing stylus, and that’s about it.
Once in a while, I’ll use the nylon tip on the other end of my basic tool to make a larger dip in the metal from the back side, but other than that, it’s just one tool and the movement of my hands and fingertips.
You can’t just “straight draw” on metal, even foil. It doesn’t LIKE to be pushed around, and it will fight you and make you go crinkly and lumpy and weird.
Curved lines are the bane of every engraver. Spend a few hours mastering it before you screw up hundreds of pieces that COULD have worked, had you taken the time to discover how to make curved lines work in metal foil.
If you’re working in the thicker material, you’ll have to find your own way. It’s not easy to work that stuff, and anything thicker than .36 gauge will probably defeat any beginner, although there’s always beginner’s luck.
“Pueblo in the Sky”, illustrated above, uses straight lines against curves to achieve its effect. You start by drawing in the sidewalks, then add the building on the right, starting with the left top and working your way toward the doorway, actually a triple arch, if you’ll take notice. The dots on the sidewalk can also be circles or squares, to add to the illusion of depth.
Straight lines are easy to emboss free-hand on foil. They will tend to look exactly the same as your drawings on paper. As a matter of fact, even your sculptures and ceramics will reflect your drawing skills or lack of them.
If you’re not very good at drawing, try some of my art books on the subject. I can help anyone learn to draw, even if they can’t even draw a stick-figure. Continue reading →